Salvation in the Midst of Mediocrity
23/08/08 10:46 Categories: Restaurant Reviews

Although not exactly a LuxePacker hotspot, I recently visited Jackson, Tennessee. My Mama is serving her last year as President of the local Links chapter (a reputable civic organization comprising equally reputable women of African-American descent). And as such, I planned a surprise weekend trip to attend a charitable event produced under her supervision.
The day following the success of Mama’s event, our family decided to celebrate at a local brunch spot. I was disappointed that Jackson, despite significant growth, sported only one brunch option. But I was game. However, after a visit to the buffet, I learned there wasn’t much to play with. I had prepared myself to devour an insane number of calories only to find that the food wasn’t worth it. I was crushed.
Without much enthusiasm, I decided to entertain the dessert bar. Only three desserts were offered. All three had me in tears. Of joy. A peanut butter haven disguised as a Mississippi Mud Cake; some sort of (damn successful) cross between a Génoise Cake and a Molten Chocolate Cake; and finally, a supernal Coconut Cream Cake. I could not have withstood the onslaught of a fourth dessert, but I would have put forth every effort I possessed had it been offered. Each time I thought the next dessert couldn’t possibly surpass my current mouthful, I was proven wrong.
Arguably, and this is an argument worth having over and over, the Coconut Cream Cake was the best. Consisting of a virginal pound cake (as can only be managed by the Deep South), imbued with a pure coconut cream custard and crowned with a lush (yes, lush) buttercream vanilla and coconut frosting, this dessert featured three different textures with vanilla as its only common theme. The end result was a deeply religious experience.
If you’d like to win the argument that the South fashions desserts like no other American region, order the sweets at Ezra Grill in the Double Tree Hotel. After the first bite, folks won’t even put up a fight.
Desserts (only) highly recommended.


